Monday, December 21, 2015

香灣西地(二)新一天 Journey to the Land (II) One Fine Day

累,要繼續走嗎?還是開始嘗試找順風車?空氣稀薄乾燥,不能走太快,慢慢來,一呼一吸,一呼一吸,背包很重,肩膝疼痛,要堅持下去。現在應該有零下幾度吧,停下來就冷得要命,幸好有太陽藍天作伴,沿途的牦牛也挺可愛,只是牠們怕陌生人,不能走近。縱使過去幾年周遊列國,卻從未用過這種方式體驗異地,沒料到於這裏誤打誤撞海拔越走越高。

雖然獨自在西藏裏埗步搭車一點也不容易,但路上感受山林脈搏的每一刻都是整趟旅程之精髓,除了經過些小鎮村子外,大部分路段人煙稀少,常要與己作伴。今天好嗎? 早睡早起,除了未知,就是與山神對話,偶然唆擺到志同道合方向相同的背包客跟我走一段,生活簡單如此,夫复何求?

差點忘了其實有位一直堅守在旁的伴侶-恐懼寶寶:「天色漸暗,仍未見任何住宿,沒車願意停怎辦?他們定在想為何有個沒廉恥不要臉的騙子在公路上裝模作樣。晚上找到旅館的話,拼死也要講價,昨天超出預算,如再下去,便不夠錢回家,或許吃少些,但沒力氣怎能繼續,近日感覺好像又變瘦了,不要這樣!為什麼總是危機處處,問題多多⋯⋯」

藏區正在大興土木,發展中痕跡遍佈四方,原以為可遇到靈性上啟發,可惜眼見塵土亂飛、垃圾亂丟,心痛已蓋過一切。究竟這趟旅程意義何在?如此刻苦就是為了經歷生命的韌度?當思想火車正向牛角尖邁進時, 迎面遠處看到一輛灰黑色吉普車,即使方向不對,我本能地把右手伸起,做出很棒頂瓜瓜的手勢,它竟開始放慢速度,停下來把門打開!車內坐滿五人,前面兩名大漢,後坐三位婦女,他們身穿藏族服飾,司機大哥問道:「小子,你自己一個嗎?上車!」

原已路過,什麼驅使他們回頭載這個素未謀面的陌生人?答案從來都不是最重要。 畫面瞬間由遼闊天地轉到一個細小的移動空間,往後七八小時我們擠在一起,分享了自製牦牛乾、大餅,還有人的體温。今天辛苦了,小休一會,明日再續。

Too frigging cold and dry!  This piece of rock on my back is making my body weary.  Should I start to hitch for a ride now?  Take it slow.  Inhale, exhale, inhale, exhale.  Shoulder and knee pain are starting to emerge.  Don’t give in so soon yet.  Marvel at the crystal blue sky.  The yaks are flurry and cute, but do not walk too close.  They are not big fans of strangers.  How do I end up walking and hitchhiking here in the middle of nowhere if I didn’t really do it in any other country?

Though it is physically challenging, I enjoy being alone in the mountains.  Nothing compares to the serenity in my heart at those particular moments when I can only hear the rhythm of Tibet.  Grounding myself in the grassland and river yesterday was magical.  It could only happen in solitude.  Companion is comforting sometimes, but it would create an extra layer of human compromise, which is exactly what I don’t need in a soulful expedition.  Guess I am eventually turning into a freaky loner.

Development is shouting at this raw piece of land.  I see trash, pollution, and construction almost everywhere.  No one seems to take care of its natural beauty and culture.  Capitalism and money is the ruler.  Whoever gets in the way shall perish.  Never thought the damage is that enormous until I see it in my own eyes.  Meanwhile, my darling fear continues to whisper in my ears, “It’s getting dark.  What are you going to do if no one offers a ride?  They think you are a fool and liar.  Last week has already been over budget.  You will have no money to go home.  Maybe skip a meal tonight, but you’re loosing weight and energy to sustain till the end.  What a disaster you put yourself into.”

Just when my eyes are losing the sparkles, there is a dark gray jeep approaching from afar.  I instinctively raise my thumb up even though its direction is not correct.  Yet it starts to slow down and opens the door right in front of me. The car is full with two guys in the front and three ladies in the back.  They are in Tibetan clothing.  The gentle but masculine driver asks, “Are you alone, young man? Get in the car!”

They have actually passed by quite a while ago.  What makes them turn around to take me on their wings?  Not to mention I’m the sixth passenger!  Well, I will just let this puzzle sits overnight.  All of a sudden my view shifts from the widest horizon to a tiny moving vehicle.  For the next seven to eight hours, we will be stuck together sharing snacks, stories and most importantly warmth.  Who knows what’s in store next?  It is break time now.  Ciao.


Press on, bitch!
The god of Mountain, please keep me sane today.
An anonymous location where I spent hours lying around.
OMG!  The sky is not blue.  The mist helps to calm the mind into a reflective mode though
Traffic in Tibet?  Nah, the soldier blocked the road for some %#*X$?* construction.
Anything can happen on the road.  This is 10 mins after hopping on the truck...
The famous Potala Palace in Lhasa
Alleyway in Sera Monastery
There is a mountain behind Sera Monastery.  For some reason I felt urged to climb it.  Not exactly the wisest decision. 
The gorgeous view of Lhasa half way through the mountain.  I was catching my breath every few steps.  
Um... yea, that's what I just climbed.
Make a prayer, my dear.
Worshippers prostrating themselves outside of the Jokhang Temple everyday
Walking into the alleys of Bakuo Street where no tourist is found
Calm view of Bakuo Street at night when all shops are closed.
Structure surrounded by beautiful Tibetan prayer flags and the modern looking Yak Museum
"Where are you heading, sir?" with my favourite traveling buddy for a few days
Stop screaming!  I'm trying to help you break free from the fence, baby. 
Truck rides usually take much longer cos they couldn't go fast; yet the experience is surely worth it.
Places I usually stayed look like this.  No toilet, hot water, wifi, + trash everywhere...  I've been trained well. 
The truth behind those pretty images
Road could be blocked for hours due to this... Gosh, it hurts my eyes
Zayu, located in the southeast of the Tibet Autonomous Region, is quite a remote location for tourists.  位於藏東南高山峡谷區的察隅是西藏比較偏遠的地方,遊客會較少。
The aboriginal tribe living in Zayu claims to be the oldest and most native one in Tibet.
住在察隅的僜人被稱為西藏其中最古老及原住的族群。
Ran into a young man living in the village.  He took us to sneak in a tangerines farm, haha...
This Chinese girl is 10 years younger than me and called me Uncle.
This random shot outside a monastery is enough to take my breath away.
近日與兩個巴西導演合作了一個MV(tfvsjs - 之between間) ,他們正在用80個MV環遊世界,有幸成為其中一份子!Around the World in 80 MV, baby! What a privilege to create & shoot with two talented directors from Brazil.  Below is the MV & making of:


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